Dermaplaning or dermablading or epidermal leveling - different names for the same thing.
Using a sterile (you hope!) scalpel to remove the fine, vellous hair on your face whilst also performing a good manual exfoliation of your skin.
That, essentially, is all it is. There are myths and fabrications about what this treatment can and can't do and I'll just spend a few minutes giving you the truth about it, if I may.
I recently heard that dermaplaning can cause terminal hair to grow. Rubbish.
ONLY HORMONES CAN ALTER YOUR HAIR PATTERN.
What dermaplaning DOES do, however, is to cut the hair shaft so it FEELS thicker...because the soft, tapered end of your hair is no longer what you can see or feel on your face. In time it will feel softer as the hair gets longer. It won't feel as "bristly".
I also read that someone believes that exfoliating the skin manually (like with gentle micro dermabrasion or a gentle facial scrub) can increase cell turnover and age the skin faster. Hmmm. There's a few pointers here that I have to first highlight. If you've smoked, drunk and sunbathed all your life and never used a decent product on your skin - then suddenly have dermaplaning done or a micro then YES, you will notice your skin perks up and acts like a normal skin for a while as you've gotten rid of all that crappy built up skin blocking the good stuff underneath. You can't increase your cell turnover this way however.
Using a product like Vitamin A CAN increase your cell turnover... but usually only if your turnover is sluggish to start with!
There is some research that suggests that skin cells have a certain number of turnovers in them before they die.....and the more you peel or ablate your skin, the faster that time will come. A peel or ablation is VERY different to having a light manual exfoliation like dermaplaning though - so no need to stress!! And if you're having one or two peels a year with good, sensible home care to support it - there is also no need to worry.
Think about it - men shave their faces most days and tend to look younger in the bottom area of the face than women do......so surely that tells you something!
So shave, dermaplane and exfoliate away. Everything in moderation and nothing in excess - and your skin will love you for it!
In all my years of skin treatments, I've never seen such a huge amount of acne as I am seeing now. I don't know if it's because I'm getting so many referrals as word of our successful treatments spreads or if there really IS an epidemic happening out there.
Firstly - let's clear up some myths about acne. Acne is always related to a hormonal issue. No matter what else is going on - it is still predominantly a hormonal problem. Secondly, acne is genetic. If one parent had acne, you have a 50% chance of getting it. If both parents had acne, you have a 75% chance of getting it (both my kids are in trouble!). Thirdly, the psychological aspect of acne is perhaps one of the worst side effects of the disorder and needs to be actively addressed. And lastly, you must remember that the body is a VERY intelligent entity. It produces oil for a reason and when we strip the oil in the hope that we can "dry" the acne out, it will kick in some serious oil production to compensate. So PLEASE stop stripping your skin with harsh acne products.
I need to tell you something else......there is NO ONE INGREDIENT that will fix ANY skin disorder! It's like telling us that we only need to eat kale for the rest of our life in order to be healthy. No. The skin needs many many different ingredients in order to treat disorders. Acne is not a disease - it's a skin disorder. And another quick note - acne forms in the hair shaft. And only in the hair shaft. So if there is hair, you can have acne in that area. But don't confuse acne with folliculitis - which is a disorder of the hair shaft.
Confusing hey??!! No wonder people feel hopeless.
Now add in some savvy marketing and some good ole fashioned bullshit and todays consumers have NO IDEA what works and what doesn't!!
So, in order to help you I am going to tell you some basic ingredients that help in the fight against acne. Use this list when you purchase products and you'll have a better chance of getting EFFECTIVE products that will work.
Salicylic acid - in small amounts this helpful little acid will spiral down the hair shaft and kill the acne-causing bacteria. It also encourages exfoliation (very important in acne suffers) and brightens the skin making it look better.
Tea Tree - in small amounts again this ingredient is antibacterial and antimicrobial. Important when dealing with acne.
Vitamin A - this will strengthen the skin and regulate the skin's turnover, slowing it down to improve the acne condition. This is an important ingredient and should be used regularly.
Zinc - Zinc is a wonderful healing agent and should be included in all acne home care products. It's also a physical sunblock.
Beta Glucan - This ingredient controls healing and reduces inflammation. This is a necessary ingredient for acne sufferers.
** Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Beta Glucan help to reduce the chance of scarring also - so remember to include these ingredients in your home care.
I would feel I hadn't done my job properly if I didn't mention the drug Roaccutane in this blog. Some of you already know that I would prefer to feed my children ANY OTHER DRUG than this one. There was a study (and correlating court case) made from 1983 for over a decade which proved a definite link from Roaccutane use in the suicides of 13 acne sufferers that were on the drug. It is well documented that Roaccutane can cause suicidal thoughts and tendencies in people who had NO PREVIOUS DEPRESSIVE ISSUES.
One in seven Roaccutane users will become sterile. ONE IN SEVEN!!!
Roaccutane causes birth defects.
There are now being tests done in older people who used Roaccutane when they were young that is seeing a link between the drug and depression in later years.
Because of the huge amounts of Vitamin A in the drug, there have been reports of joint issues in older age.
Really?? You'd do this deliberately to yourself or your kids?? Come on. Get a second opinion if your GP is encouraging you to use this drug. Find another GP. Find yourself a Skin Therapist and take advantage of their knowledge. Come and see me. Do anything you can to find out the CORRECT information about what will work and what won't. In the long run, you'll save a fortune and you may just save your health as well.
Rosacea is a skin condition that confuses almost everyone that comes into contact with it! Doctors, beauty therapists and skin therapists all have conflicting views on this disorder and very different views on how to treat it.
To start at the beginning you must first determine what rosacea is and whether, in fact you DO have it. Rosacea is a red (occasionally purple tinged), inflamed and often pustular condition that presents predominantly on the cheeks, chin and forehead. There are differing beliefs that it is genetic, triggered by certain foods or is impacted by environmental factors (too much sun, wind burn, incorrect skin care/makeup etc). Although some studies tell us that it is predominantly an "old man" disorder, I see more and more young to middle aged women with it.
The general consensus is the rosacea is, in part at least, caused by the Demodex mite. This mite is on everyone's skin, however it is in much larger numbers with rosacea sufferers. When the mite dies, bacteria is released and this affects the integrity of the skin, causing redness, inflammation and acne-like symptoms in some. Studies have concluded that antibiotics that kill the SPECIFIC bacteria that the demodex mites release are effective in 79% of cases and this is some of the evidence we have to prove the link between demodex & rosacea.
Rosacea is prone to "flare ups" where a trigger will make it appear worse. With some people, they know what foods they need to avoid but others have no idea what triggers a flare up - it's like Russian Roulette!
The one thing that everyone can agree on is that Rosacea ALWAYS has a gut issue associated with it. ALWAYS. You CANNOT treat your face and ignore the gut/bacteria connection as you will never get it under control. And you will never get rid of rosacea - you can only manage it once you've got it. So the first thing you need to do is take a good probiotic at the beginning of you day. It is also a smart idea to incorporate fermented foods/drinks in your diet to make sure you're doing the best for your gut health. Kombucha, Kimchi & sauerkraut are all great additions to your diet. Removing things like dairy and gluten may also improve your gut health as they seem to be regular triggers, but definitely seek advice from a gut health specialist before removing food groups from your diet.
Common topical treatments recommended by doctors are steroid creams and antibiotics. Rozex is a medicine that contains an active substance called metronidazole. It is both an antibiotic and antiprotozoic agent, meaning it kills both bacteria and other micro-organisms known as protozoa. This seems to be the most commonly prescribed cream from doctors and dermatologists.
I cannot comment on the effectiveness or the safety of any prescribed creams as I have never used them and have only had a few clients who have been on them and they didn't stay on them for long. Steroid creams in any form will slowly thin the skin when used for extended periods of time. Oral antibiotics will mess with your gut bacteria and so needs to be counteracted with probiotics and fermented foods.
So, what can a skin therapist offer a sufferer of Rosacea? Quite a few things in fact! The first is the use of LED Therapy. The blue light will help kill the bacteria and offer some relief from the heat and inflammation. Using LED 3-4 times a week will improve the strength and integrity of the skin. There has been some study that small amounts of AHAs and Vitamin A reduce the amount of bacteria on the skin AND strengthen the underlying skin itself so it's less prone the the redness. Light peels with enzyme masks to flush & strengthen the capillaries work best in-clinic. Home care of Vitamin A and more soothing day creams have proven most effective, long term.
Contact the Head Therapist at Skin Tone to book in for a comprehensive skin consultation and see how we can help YOUR skin condition.
More and more often I'm seeing hormonal skin on my clients and it's on the increase. It's very frustrating for them (and me!) and no one ever seems to take the time to explain to them what causes an increase in hormonal activity nor what it will do to your skin.
Basically, you should know that everything that happens in your body is linked to hormones. The food you eat, the stress you take on, the chemicals you ingest, your age and your body condition all affect your hormones. For example : high amounts of stress raise your cortisol levels (cortisol is a stress hormone) which then have a direct effect on your thyroid hormones, blood sugar hormones and your sex hormones. In turn, long periods of high cortisol levels will affect your weight, your ability to lose weight, your skin, your sex drive and your overall mood. When my clients experience high levels of stress, I see an increase in hormonal breakouts as well as a general lethargy, often an increase in facial hair and weight gain/loss that they can't control.
When I was 24 I went for a regular pap smear and found out I had PCOS. All through my teens and up until I was 22-23 I was a size 8-10, ate whatever I wanted and didn't have to work terribly hard at maintaining my figure. Suddenly I was experiencing regular weight gain, facial hair growth, acne and very painful periods (although they had always been an issue, right from when I was a teenager). Of course I went to the Dr who advised me I would have to go on the pill (to sort out my hormones) and I would need to diet and exercise for the rest of my life to keep the weight off. Of course, I know now that treating a hormonal condition with hormones (the pill) was my first mistake. No one ever mentioned clean eating, reducing the amount of processed foods I ingested and certainly "gut health" was something that would take another two decades to become an option. I was lucky though - no one tried to put me onto Roaccutane to "fix" my skin so I was saved that misery.
This story is something I hear from clients on a weekly basis. MOST of my ladies have PCOS or unstable hormones and I'm lucky to have a great endocrinologist to send them to - someone who does very specific testing and then puts strict guidelines in to place to settle the hormonal issues that they have. As well, we treat the acne and hair growth in the clinic. Together, we have amazing results.
However, for me, it was the weight gain that caused the most trauma as I despised being fat but had no knowledge of how to control my weight. I joined Sureslim, Weight Watchers, Lite n Easy and many gyms with little to no result. After having two children, two things happened....I had a Marena inserted for birth control and I peaked at my highest weight. I went to a weight loss specialist who told me that due to my hormones I would never be able to lose the weight normally and so I recently opted for a bariatric sleeve. Secondly, I started learning more about the connection between food, gut and skin. I'd always been interested in a Paleo lifestyle as I have known for a long time that processed carbohydrates are not a healthy option for someone like me with hormonal issues. I learnt (the hard way) that dairy, wheat and sugar are not my friends. I love them - but they don't love me!!
So, for me, I have to have a high (healthy) fat diet that is 80% clean. I'm no saint with my eating, so I'll never be perfect. I love my coffee and I enjoy a whisky at the end of the day with my husband so those things will never go. However, thanks to a very knowledgeable friend, I now know that there are good options with regards to the food I consume. If it comes from a packet, I probably don't want it. Vegetables, clean meat, in season fruit and clean drinks are the staples that work best for me and my unruly hormones! Due to the sleeve, I no longer have fizzy drinks in my diet which is a major drop on processed sugars for me. Also, as I can only have very small amounts of food, what I do eat has to be nutritionally dense...for example - breakfast needs to be one egg, half an avocado with a shot of clean olive oil. It takes me FOREVER to eat this amount! And as someone who prefers two coffees instead of food at that time of day, it's been a real test for me.
So, if you're struggling with your weight or your skin, come and have a chat with me. I'm not a doctor but I have walked my own path with hormonal struggles and I can probably give you some information that the medical professionals won't. I have no agenda, other than to help women like me who have really reached the end of their tether.
Occasionally we hear of clients having "allergic" reactions to products. They may come in at their next appointment or call up to tell us about it, some even stop using the products or visit their doctor before letting us know there's even been an issue.
Firstly - I need to let you know, allergic reactions to products are EXTREMELY rare and in all my years I've seen less than a handful of proper allergic reactions to skin care products.
With any active range, however, you can get what's known as a "skin reaction" which is basically just your skin getting used to new, active products and clears within a week to ten days. This may include dry spots, breakouts or slight redness/irritation.
A true allergic reaction occurs within 24 hours and always presents with severe redness, swelling, welts, itching, burning and sometimes lumps.
If you think you're having an allergic reaction, always contact us immediately. We are available either in clinic, on the phone or via social media routes and are very quick to get back in touch. It's not advisable to go straight to the Dr for a steroid cream as we will never get to the bottom of the issue....and most doctors have no idea what skin care formulations do on the skin and so will immediately prescribe something to suppress the "reaction". Once you start taking a prescription for the "reaction" we legally cannot do anything more - our insurance won't allow us to treat over a Dr's recommendation.
Antihistamines are very good for skin reactions and swelling and when you have a treatment that I know has caused a histamine reaction in the past, I will warn you of it beforehand. Also, if you take on a complete new range of skin care I will also warn you of a "skin reaction" as I've mentioned above.
Skin Tone doesn't accept returns as a general rule, unless we know it's a true allergic reaction as we need to return it to Head Office for them to test it. Every case is assessed individually and is at the discretion of the Owner.
If you think you've had an allergic reaction to a treatment or product, please get in touch with us ASAP and document the effect in the form of a photo so we can see what we're working with. If you're concerned with the skin sensation of ANY products, please contact us so we can troubleshoot over the phone and put your mind to rest...
We have just started offering Cryo Therapy and we're REALLY excited about it! And here is a bit of information about it for you - so YOU can get excited about it too....
During a treatment the skin is rapidly cooled, using a beam of vaporized liquid nitrogen, in a matter of minutes. This leads to a tightening of the microcirculation blood stream, known as vasoconstriction, and then dilation of blood vessels and capillaries which helps to flush toxins and impurities away from the skin.
The process works to contract the skin and accelerate microcirculation which supports better oxygenation of dermal cells, encourages collagen production and helps to detox and rejuvenate the skin.
The Cryo Facial treatment has numerous benefits including:
Restoring firmness and radiance
Helping to reduce pigmentation or uneven skin tone
Helping to rejuvenate fatigued skin
Increasing skin radiance
Improving skin texture and tone
Lightening scars left from acne
Treating skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis
The treatment only takes 10 minutes and the results are immediate and there is generally no post treatment downtime or after effects. The Cryo Facial can be conducted as a one off treatment but the best results will come with repeat applications. What’s more it can be taken as a stand alone or with other treatments, such as skin needling.
The beauty about this treatment is it can be performed without removing your makeup! So if you're time poor, you can pop in for 10 minutes and leave with your makeup and hair still perfectly done (it will even set your makeup, making it look better than when you arrived!).